Trekking on Tenkinskoy highway 2013
83 photos, 44 MB.
Route:Susuman - Magadan, Radicals at Butugachag Mine and at Solnechnoe Lake.
Golden shade. Take it with your wheels. See everything, call on all the passes. The time has come.
Our trip is not the first on this route. AT . In along it from here to Siberia in the September cold.
Degree because you can not lower? :) So I was planning a little cooler. On the day runs a little more. And two radicals: on Butugichag and on Solar Lake.
Soared in August. Found a partner - Gleb Drobyshev (Underfined). In July, it would be more comfortable, but the circumstances are as follows.
The calculation was for 10 running days, of which one was assigned to Butugichag, three to Sunny, and six to Susuman - Magadan. It turned out a little more
We flew to Susuman on 12 August. With landing in Berry. There is nothing like an airport, only a dirt lane, of the buildings next to it there is only a fire shield and a wooden toilet. But very democratic. The pilot invites passengers to go out and smoke for about fifteen minutes before the next take-off :)
But in Susuman they are transported in a bus station to the bus station. They collected stories, loaded and made. Rolled through the city for a review and buy gas for the stove (you can not carry gas in the plane).
Susuman is terrible. The coverage of the streets is as if there are tank-dangerous directions everywhere, and they are already prepared for the invasion of the adversary. Honestly, for such a condition of the streets, the city authorities should be driven back.
We left Susuman, and the walk started!
August 12, the first day.
The main track, of course, confirmed my dislike for her. Anti-bike coverage mostly. Pits, pits, kamenyugi, free-lying gravel. But, really, we were lucky a couple of times. We drove one site on the newly traced track. And in the area of the settlement of Cold we were visited by cognitive dissonance - a kilometer was laid there and a f a la t a! And put more!
Between Cold and Susumanom quite heavy traffic. There are dredges on the rivers. Electricity, supply, transportation are supplied to the drags ...
Total for the main we had to go around
42 km before turning to Tenka. The turn was both so ordinary and at the same time mysterious and alluring. The sun shone from there! The mountains are there. Where the first pass on that path was waiting for us.
Lyrical digression. I love passes.I love very much. Although, it happens, and I curse when I drop into it, my dear. I just like to ride up. And every pass here, which I have not yet taken, is a challenge for me. And not only. Not an adversary, but as a friend, as a favorite, as a native. So it goes. Love
She went. To date, the pass was Loshkalah 1050 m. We reached the mountains and went to take it. He is beautiful. He is wonderful. There are loops and serpentines. There, a new loop arises from the turn, and the top is farther and higher than you thought. Looking to the side is a huge bowl between the mountains. You can’t look back, you have to follow the road, there is a side bias too. And I want to stop and look at the hinges passed, and you can’t - you roll, it’s better not to take off on takeoff, if you don’t die at all. Up! Already two km to the tip of the calculation, already one ... Here, here ... Here are the power lines, they just show the pass. Another bit ... Taken! From this place down already. Bike on the side, a wide step through it. Turn and look around. The world is under me. I'm God. I'm on top of this world.
Then "god" need to drink, pour and eat snickers. Snickers and Mars are “our everything”. Each of us took a dozen large doubles. Sharpened one for two - energy for another ten.Like diesel or benz
Down from Loshkalaha. The team this time was not fearless. Down from this and from the next neatly. Not more than 40 km / h. (They are still serpentine all. From the direct descent from Kapran last year I drenched all 80 km / h)
Overnight on the river Ayan-Yuryah. Finished to her. She is beautiful. Calm dignity across the coast. Forty kilometers away, taking to its waters Berelekh and Kulu, it will become Kolyma. The day was a success.
Mileage80 km, middle peasant16 km / h, in the pedals 5 hours.
August 13, the second day.
I must say that I was flattered very much at the planning stage. I would try to use the method of “two laptoes on the map, there are no special slides - the middle peasant in area 18”. In reality, from all middle peasants, it was necessary to take off 2 km / h. And on this day I set 124 km, including the Kulinsky Pass. But already on the first day it became clear that there was not much to go through. It was decided to reduce a little, stopping at the approaches to the Kulu Pass on the Pr.Itrikan River.
And right in front of us was the Gavryushka pass of 1181 m. Only 13 km to the tip, fresh, we take off. Top visible from afar. The slope diagonally cuts through the road. However, there is an unexpected loop before it. The road is great. I do not know which one I liked more - Loshkalah or Gavryushka.Both are good!
From the descent to the Matraibyt river, the coverage was worse - there was a lot of gravel, it was not possible to slip carelessly. Then it got better, and we drove upstream along the valley of the Kulu River. Before lunch there was a very long haul - 55 km from the top of Gavryushka to the Talgychan stream.
Cloudy, but warm, the most rolling weather. In shorts and in a jacket. Kilometers flow back in my head full relaxation. Sometimes the effort on the pedals is no longer seen. How not to notice, for example, the efforts that are needed to keep your head. And then you stop tying forward movement with pedaling. It seems to you that you mix the air. Or tamp it. Or shake like grapes in a barrel. And the bike rolls you forward on its own. Summer, the track, there are tasty passes ahead, a backpack full of food. Happiness.
We arrived to Talgychan after 16 hours. Lunch even laid in less than two hours, but ... Then began some terrible sticking out without discharges. Neryuchi River, 19 hours. The Kulu River, 19-40. Majestic, beautiful. Admired from the bridge. Met two-wheeled, but with a motor, fellow. It seems to me that past him landscapes are flying too fast.
Here we were completely tired, it was decided to get up for the night at the very first good water.But it was not there, and it was necessary to finish another ten to Itrikan, willy-nilly, taking the first part of the set to the Kulu Pass.
Mileage 107, average 14.6, in the pedals 7-18.
August 14, the third day.
Kulu Pass is special. About 350 meters of recruitment from overnight stay to the tip is compressed at 11 km. Therefore, the pass to the pass is very good. The take-off is only 2 km, but the slopes on it are probably a record area for roads. By the first saddle is almost on the verge of zazelabnosti. In general, not so easy.
Then I changed the brake pads. I had only one normal pair, so far divorced on different wheels. Now I put it in front, and there are no brakes behind the back :) Well, the new brakes did not have time to come before the hike.
Descent, and began the most dead part of the road on Tenka. ROMA carries sand from somewhere under the pass to itself in huge dump trucks in incredible quantities. The road to the mine killed them completely. Fortunately, we still had to down.
Under a small rain they crawled to Omchak and turned into the mine. Matrosov. Life there is boiling and boiling. Trucks like cars on Lenin Street at rush hour. New residential buildings, warehouses of materials, the ranks of heavy machinery. A lot of money. The beating of the golden heart of Kolyma. Natalka.Her gold will lead the region to a brighter future.
And we there were smeared in liquid, saturated with oil and solar mud. Sent your control SMS, go.
The village of Gastello, the dead, the village of Transportny, a few more people left. Lunch on the creek Atas.
Here we roll along the valley of the river Tenka downstream. Easy to roll. The track has already come to life. And the river is dead, of course. She washed all over and repeatedly. At the confluence with Nelkoby, Tenka turns from us to the left to mother Kolyma. At 19-20 we are a bridge over the Nelkkoby. The village of the same name is dead. We spent the night a little further on the nameless stream.
Mileage 111, average 15.2, in the pedals 7-18.
August 15, the fourth day.
On this day, the planned radical on the mine Butugichag. Gleb was not there yet, but I visited in 2008 as part of the framework (you can read more about Butugichag)
The road to Butugychag begins from Terrasovyi brook, about five kilometers are driven in a saddle, and it is also more convenient for the five to go on foot. Everything together is done before lunch, if there is no goal to climb around there more. In principle, it was planned to rest, half-day. But we were not so tired to have a rest, so after the mine we drove further along the highway, caught up and even somewhat overtook the original schedule. We stopped for the night 20 km to Ust-Omchug. A small perevalchik on the road caught.We rolled on this day on relaxed, we did not set speed records.
Mileage 38 (plus 15 kilometers on foot), average 14.2, in pedals 2-40.
August 16, the fifth day.
Morning ride to Ust-Omchuga. In the village is normal. And I noticed a difference with a visit to five years ago. Out of people's eyes, wariness and hostility are gone. Now they are looking either benevolently or indifferently.
Bought vkusnyashek, got off the ring. Alas, I did not find a contented rare battery from the wireless sensor of the bicycle compass, so I had to continue without it.
Ride on. Lunch on the Hercules Creek. Beautiful place we got.
The road went along the valley of the river Anmannand upstream. Closer to its sources began stalls, which led us at the end of the day to the pass of 141 km. Pass quite a decent one. And on sets, and on loops. It seemed somewhat gloomy, perhaps because of the proximity to twilight and our fatigue. But he deserves his own name, we should be puzzled by this.
Located on the night on the river Bukeschen. From that evening it became very cold. And I also washed there in a puddle, without taking off my helmet :) it was funny to look from the side. Because of the coats, we did not even beat the desired bubble of vodka - we ran into the tent without finishing.
Mileage 87, average 16, in the pedals 5-23.
August 17, the sixth day.
The journey to Lake Sunny was for me just as important as the passage of Tenka itself. There is a road to Solnechnoye from the 120 km of the Tenkinskaya route along the Bukeschen, from the 80th - along Armani, from the wind route from the north and, it seems, from the Agate road, which can be reached from the main one (the tempting thing). On the way along Armani, it is necessary to force the river Ygandzhu, which, although it may be shallow, is unlikely to take ford in August.
We decided to go to the lake and leave it along Bukeschen. Despite the attractiveness of the ring route. Optimism added a report on the travel team in 2011. They went there like on asphalt almost.
But everything was steeper here :) The rain that had dripped occasionally and slightly in previous days watered seriously on that day. Path ... What else could be the path in the river? Large gravel. Somewhere you can go, albeit with great difficulty, somewhere you can not. The first 15 km of this Achtung. Several times you have to go back and forth.
Then the road climbs on the side of the hills, and there is already much better. I suspect that she could make me excited and happy.Larch needles, ground ... Yes, it is there. But not at this time. Not in the rain, not wet below the transition from the river, not in the cold. And obnosy impassable puddles, too frequent. And I’ve cleverly gotten into one of them, so there’s not much left on me.
Having traveled 30 km from a 50 km distance, we quickly got lunch in a collapsed hut. There is not enough time for a full meal and it's too cold.
The road came to the tundra in the valley of the river Bakhapchi. Or rather call it a swamp. Backpacks outweighed the back and went on a barely noticeable rut. Perhaps in dry weather, you can ride there. And even on a motorcycle. But these days there would be any wheeled vehicles buried there.
Total kilometers 4-5 approximately. But the speed in the swamp more than two does not go. In the middle Bakhapcha flows, originating in the most Sunny. Very close to the roots. We passed without problems. To the middle of the thigh, for an average, width of fifteen meters.
We dug through the marsh and reached a good rocky road leading to the lake from the wind direction.
Here you could go again. Already on the way, we turned a little in the wrong direction, cut off the path, but we had to drag everything through the forest a mile and a half.
We went to the cordon. Excellent. Pass for the day failed. We are great.
Mileage about 50 km. Of course, we drove most of the distance, but in time we moved more on foot. On the way there were more than 11 hours.
August 18 - 24. On the island.
According to the plan, it was supposed to leave the lake the next day after lunch, after a short rest. Then we would spend 2 days on the way back, which corresponded to the schedule, which had a fork here for realistic and optimistic options.
But no. The rain did not stop, but watered with might and main. We left the cordon, saying goodbye to the caretaker Pasha, drove a bike 5-6 kilometers along the road under the hills. It was impossible to go because of the excessive number of puddles and streams. And they rested against the place where, on the road, in the place where we were driving yesterday, a good river ran. Stumbled back and forth ...
It became clear that if this is the case, then Bakhapchu will not pass. It must now be, does not look like that dear yesterday's trickle. And what's more, if you somehow jump out of it, you can be cut off in front of Buceschen, and the continued rise will not allow you to return. And that would be a really bad situation.
Well. Fate tells us to return and wait for the fall of the water.
Pasha greeted us with a smile. Flowed day waiting.
Of course, all the other paths from the lake were all the more impassable. And impassable for all types of transport. The alignment was like that. If the rain stops today, then on the third day after we can jump out. So we thought both the 18th, and the 19th, and the 20th ...
And the water level in the lake kept rising and rising. At some point, Pasha said that he saw this only once, at another time, that he saw this for the first time ... Another 15 centimeters, and the bath would float in the lake ...
Perhaps scourging on the lake is something of a fascinating experience. Yes, we had no connection, the TV did not show adult channels. But we had food, firewood and smoke.
There are quite romantic moments. The evening, the stove crackles, I’m in a chair, smoking, I accept, I read Trotsky’s memories of his meetings in émigrés in London with Lenin, about the work at Iskra’s editorial board ...
Or in the morning dogs wake up with heart-rending barking, in which the bear came to steal food.
Or fishing out of need, because, apart from the cereals, there is nothing special ... Well, and one more thing, which is not worth telling here. Of course, we were not doing nothing. They soldered their soldering. But still ... wait boring.
It's over, the rains are over. On the 22nd we went on reconnaissance, and decided that the day after tomorrow we could go.
24 August. The seventh day (running).
The level of the lake did not return to the point at which we arrived, but it dropped seriously. The road to the top almost everywhere has already become a roadway. And the streams are not above the knee. On the tundra, of course, it was hard.
And here is Bakhapcha. Hmm ... In that place do not go - above the belt and a very strong current. As we forced it ... I recorded the impressions of each day on the recorder, the recording of this evening perfectly reflects, but I'm afraid that if there are all the expressions there, there is little to understand. Well, who heard this record, he laughed
In general, let's go look for a ford upstream. Well, how come? Ryuk behind him, great drag. Bushes. Solid, taller. Nichrome is not visible. Under the feet of the water. It’s not just standing there and squishing it. And flowing. Not a trickle, but completely.
The process of movement is as follows. With one foot you get up on a hummock, so that was not higher than a knee in water. You bend the bush in front and stand on it with your other foot. Then pull the bike forward. He does not twitch. Then you get another bush out of the pedal, another one from the switch, the third one from the steering wheel. And yank again. Oh, go home. Now you can search where to move the first leg. Meter path successfully passed.
- Well, what's next?
- Wait, let me first get up, where below the knee of water.
Found a huge log through the stream. 20 centimeters of water on top, slippery, below it is a pit with a depth of “enough”. Dragged bikes. But there is no certainty that this was the main course, and not one of the channels, which have already jumped a lot.
Baphapcha suddenly begins to flow in one direction, then in another. Not a damn thing is clear, not a damn thing is visible. Gleb climbed onto the tree, with her, too, is not particularly clearer. But since we are on the left bank, we must be on the other side. More along. Hooray. Here is our ford on the road from the other side. More than three hours. On the navigator as far as possible away from the ford at 360 meters. And sometimes snow poured in from above :) Well, it was only three degrees of heat.
We had lunch. And in the way to the hut, which stands in the middle of the path, where they intended to spend the night. Road ... You can go for the most part. But there are many puddles, and in some places there is just water along the road for hundreds of meters. To the hut arrived hours at 10 pm. There was not enough light time to gather wood for the stove, only for dinner. We had to sleep in a tent then, once without a stove, it was chilly - at night a particular minus.
25-th of August. Eighth day.
And here it was already sunny, for the first time for a walk.Cheerfully rolled a tag, we have a cozy dinner on the road on Bukeschene - a loaf is going. Police from Ust-Omchuga. They are looking for us
Something about this commotion that ended in search and finding,.
The guys threw us about five kilometers closer to the track, then we finished it ourselves, Bukeschen didn’t get up much, all the fords went easily.
Already on the track met Oleg. They laughed, filled up our supplies a little with him and drove forward. Thoughts that it is no longer necessary to be wet, to climb into the rivers and into the puddles, and now the bike will only carry you, and not vice versa, they heat it up unspeakably. And the food is now in abundance. Kayf!
We spent the night on the Steep Creek. There is just a magical place. Cozy gut. Christmas trees - straight, tall and slender. And moss carpets under their feet. Fairy tale!
August, 26th. Day nine.
At the beginning of the path there is another almost adult nameless pass on the 87 km track. From there, the descent to Armani. Build a new bridge, it is almost ready. Traces of flood on the river are significant. Descent from that pass could not stand the trunk. Remote stand from the caliper cut off. In general, I made sure that thisAxiom- still not a cake, you have to take a disc brakeTopeak. Hastily wound with wire and tape.The rest of the way was enough.
Finished up to Madown. There still live about a hundred people. There is a canteen and a couple of shops. The village looks pretty nice. Some sort of calm, rustic, old and cozy.
And ahead pass Gusakova. Straight from Madown is 24 km long and 3 km of takeoff to the pass. The takeoff is not particularly cool. Here at the Vershinka, the border between the Tenkinsky and Khasinsky districts.
And I felt sad. The hike is over. And I will yearn for the slopes, on this expanse on the passes, when you see the distant mountains for many kilometers around. For the passion that leads you up, there far up, where the thread of the road meets the thread of power lines on top. By the sense of pride with which you look down from the conquered pass. These Christmas trees, rivers, overnight stays under the sound of water, the heat of the fire ...
We spent the night on Nelkandzha, not far from the bridge, in a beautiful place, on a cliff.
Mileage 86, average 16.9, in the pedals 05-05.
August 27th. Day ten (running), seventeenth (in general).
And one more mini-pass. And down to the Tent, to the main. On the posts last kilometers of Tenka: 470, 471, 472 ...
On the Tent relaxed delicious bakery from the bakery. And the last 80 km of asphalt, home.
At 17-30, they parted with Gleb on deer. The finish.
Mileage 108, average 19, in the pedals 05-42.
Total mileage750 km
The route was passed successfully, everything planned was fulfilled, and the deadlines did not meet due to force majeure circumstances. Ust-Omchug flooded in such a way. As far as I know, the route to Sunny and back - this is the first ascent to the bike. And some said that we will not pass :)
Technique proved to be normal. In addition to the trunk, there were only a few punctures, but Gleb changed the tire on the road. The budget for flights, food with you and on the road amounted to 8-9 thousand. And Gleb and even less due to benefits.
Liked! I'm happy.
Trekking on Tenkinskoy highway 2013
Trekking on Tenkinskoy highway 2013
Trekking on Tenkinskoy highway 2013
Trekking on Tenkinskoy highway 2013
Trekking on Tenkinskoy highway 2013