How to replace the floor in the apartment?
We often have to do small-scale work onbut what if it's time to repair and replace the whole floor? Based on this article, you can independently replace the wooden floors in any room. Consider the process of replacing the floor in an apartment in stages.
Do I need to rearrange the floor in the apartment?
To begin with, we need to make sure thatThe wooden floor really needs to be replaced. To do this, remove a small piece of floor covering and look at the state of the floor boards. If there are cracks on the boards, rot, fungus, boards are crumbled when they are pressed on them, then it is necessary to replace the floor as soon as possible. If casting defects are missing, you can simply recite the old floor, and this again will give it a good appearance.
Selection and purchase of materials for the replacement of sex
So, we decided that we need to re-overhaul the floors. Now we need to buy materials for the work: board, logs, waterproofing and sound insulation, screws (screws). Now a very popular is the grooved floor board, which has a groove and tongue from the ribs, which provides a more reliable connection and a close fit of the boards to each other.
Now you need to choose the dimensions of the board. For living rooms use a board 21 mm thick or 27 mm, there are 35 mm, but it is used mainly for the arrangement of public buildings. The width of the boards can be from 60 mm to 140 mm, here you can choose which width is more suitable for you. For rough floors in general take boards in width to 100 mm, while for varnishing take wider boards, which due to fewer seams look more impressive. Accordingly, knowing the dimensions of the room and the dimensions of the board (the boards are sold 4-6 m long), we count how many boards we need for the floor, adding one more board.
It is better not to hope that the manufacturer for allrules dried, and dry the board itself (preferably in a room where the floor is re-laid) for 3-4 weeks, after which the bottom is treated with an antiseptic. Most often after drying you will find that the width of the boards has decreased by 1 mm - 5 mm and you will not regret that you bought boards with a margin.
As a log use non-planed boards fromhealthy coniferous wood and soft hardwoods, which are treated with an antiseptic. When laying the width of the log should be from 80 mm to 120 mm, thickness from 25 mm to 50 mm. If there are boards of the old floor in good condition, then it is possible to use them as logs, cutting them with an electric jigsaw and processing with an antiseptic.
As a waterproofing agent, ruberoid strips are used. As a soundproofing strip, polyurethane or roll cork is used.
Preparatory work before changing the floor
After buying the materials, you need to clear the floor inroom from furniture and appliances. The next step is to tear off the plinth. Then with the help of scrap and nail we make dismantling of old boards and log, after which it is necessary to clean underground space, if possible, get rid of dust and do a wet cleaning. We look, whether there are holes and cracks between overlappings and walls, and if such is, we seal up them with assembly foam.
Restoring wooden floors
Now that the process of dismantling is over, we canproceed to install the wooden floor. First lay the waterproofing and soundproofing. They are laid solid strips under the lags throughout their length without breaks, strictly along their longitudinal axis, so that they protrude 10 mm on the lag from each side.
After this, proceed to laying the log. They are located across the direction of the light to lay the boards of the coating along the light and in the direction of motion. First of all, set the extreme lags near the opposite walls with a gap of 20-30 mm between the wall and the lag, then arrange the rest. The distance between the lags is 500 mm. In the doorways of adjacent rooms, it is necessary to make the lag a bit wider than the others: it should protrude beyond the partition on each side, so that the planks of adjacent rooms rest on one lag. We check the lags on the account of levelness with the help of the slats with the level.
For a little leveling, you can sand a little under the soundproofing. To increase the rigidity of the structure, we fasten the lugs to each other with pieces of boards using galvanized corners.
When the lags are set, we begin to put them on themnew boards. We put the first board with a spike to the wall with a gap of 10 mm, then in this and in all subsequent boards screw the screws in the grooves of the boards over each lag at an angle of 45-60 degrees. After the first board is screwed, we insert the second spike into the groove of the first board, we punch it with a wooden wedge for dense joining of two boards and also we fasten, as well as the first one. The operation is repeated until the sex is fully established.